Written 05/01/2022, Last updated 12/09/2024

Natural habitat and enclosure design:

Native to the Andean slopes of Ecuador, Epipedobates anthonyi is typically found living a terrestrial lifestyle on tropical or subtropical forest floors. Much of the population, which is restricted to a small area, can be found in the Bolívar Province. Here they are under threat due to human activity, and its subsequent impacts, such as mining, pollution, and deforestation- this has resulted in the IUCN considering the species ‘Near Threatened’. 

As the species requires a reasonably consistent temperature range and high humidity, front-opening glass tanks are generally considered the most suitable housing. Despite their size, the species is highly active both in the wild and in captivity. This should be considered when choosing the size of a tank. My minimum recommendation for a group of 6 adult frogs is a terrarium 60 centimetres (24 inches) in length and 45 centimetres (18 inches) deep. Height is the least important measurement as the species is terrestrial, however larger tanks can be used to create impressive displays. My own tank houses 4 adult frogs and is 80 centimetres long, 50cm deep, and 80cm tall. This enables me to include larger plant species, create more natural thermal gradients, and offer some arboreal space should the frogs decide to use it. 

When designing any setups, I encourage keepers to thoroughly research their species’ natural environment. Scientific articles and online platforms such as iNaturalist are invaluable tools for enclosure design. 

The key features of the Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog’s natural habitat are: 

• Deep leaf litter- home to many of the dart frog’s prey species and provides ideal shelter and security. It is here females will also lay eggs before males transport them on their backs to water sources 

• Streams- the species lives in close proximity to water courses, which enable breeding behaviour 

These two features are essential for the species’ survival and reproduction in the wild and can help keepers to plan their own enclosures. In my own tank I have included a generous layer of leaf litter as well as a waterfall and stream. This can be seen in figure 1-3 throughout this care sheet. 

Any water features in the setup should be planned cautiously. Dart frogs are not swimmers and could drown in water which is too deep. A large water area will also reduce useable space in the setup. If you decide not to incorporate a water feature into the setup, a shallow water dish is recommended to allow the frogs a safe place to deposit their young. All water used in amphibian setups must be free from harmful chemicals, such as chlorine, which can kill them. Even when misting, use only mature, dechlorinated, bottled, or reverse osmosis (RO) water sources. 

There are plenty of other features required to meet the welfare requirements of your frogs. This includes getting the substrate correct. Many commercial mixes are now available off-the-shelf which are perfect for a naturalistic dart frog terrarium. They can also be used to provide the foundation of a bioactive setup, supporting plant growth and providing homes for clean-up crew. One of my favourite dart frog substrates is ProRep Biolife Forest. It is also important to consider the need for a false bottom or drainage layer to avoid substrate becoming waterlogged with daily misting. 

Rock, wood and branches should also be incorporated into the setup. This will help to create a natural habitat, help to feed a bioactive setup, and offer enrichment to your frogs. Whilst dart frogs are terrestrial, they will use height if it is provided. Male frogs may seek high areas in their tank to call for females- building areas of higher substrate, rock, or branches will enable this natural behaviour.  

Artificial hides- such as coco huts- could also be used for further refuge areas if the keeper is concerned only with functionality of their setup. 

Planting is also important to create further cover, whilst also supporting the high levels of humidity required by tropical South American species. In my own tank, I have used species found in the frog’s natural range to create a biotope-accurate feel. Ideal plants for an Ecuadorian setup include: 

• Peperomia prostrata 

• Fittonia verschaffeltii 

• Anthurium andreanum 

• Philodendron sodiroi 

• Neoregelian spp. such as Antigone variegata and Super Fireball 

• Calathea spp. 

You can find out more about bioactive terrarium design here. 

Environmental conditions:

Like reptiles, amphibians are ectothermic, requiring carefully controlled environmental parameters to remain healthy. This includes three main conditions: temperature, light, and humidity. 

As Epipedobates anthonyi is found on Andean slopes, it is subject to cooler temperatures than many people may immediately expect from a tropical species. Year-round, their native range is subjected to an ambient temperature range of around 18-22 degrees Celsius. In fact, temperatures exceeding this can be detrimental to the dart frog’s health and can cause deaths. Temperatures will also naturally dip overnight. 

To maintain the ideal temperature range, many keepers opt to heat the entire room to a suitable ambient temperature. For many others, though, this simply isn’t possible. Heat mats on the sides or base of the tank, controlled by a thermostat, can be a great way to increase ambient temperatures in a localised area. Overhead heating can also be used, although this may dry out the humid setup too quickly over the course of the day. Again, this would need to be thermostatically controlled. With our warming summers, keepers may find that throughout parts of the year supplementary heat is not required. Ambient and surface temperatures must still be monitored regularly to ensure that parameters remain within the comfort zone. 

Lighting is important to create a natural day-night cycle to support the species’ circadian rhythms. In bioactive terrariums it will also promote plant growth and general health. There is some debate surrounding the need for UVB lighting for amphibians, including dart frogs. In my opinion, all reptiles and amphibians will benefit from the supply of appropriate UVB lighting. This is very subjective depending upon your setup, the tank, and the brand of UV used. I use Arcadia’s dimmable Lumenize unit with a 7% shadedweller bulb, which provides a naturalistic sunrise and sunset. The ‘Reptile Lighting’ Facebook group is a great resource for individual lighting advice. Since swapping from daylight lighting to UVB several years ago, there has been an obvious increase in activity and health of my own frogs. 

LED lighting can also be used to create the full lighting spectrum wild individuals will experience. This will also aid the growth of live plants and encourage more natural behaviours.  

The typical day length across the native range of the Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog is around 10 hours. All lighting units should be controlled to provide between 10 and 12 hours of light each day. Most units will require plug-in timers to control this, however Arcadia’s Lumenize range should not be used in conjunction with timers as this will cause the app-controlled unit to set incorrect timings. 

The final key parameter is humidity. In the Bolívar Province the humidity remains above 80% year-round. Additionally, rainfall increases drastically throughout the wet seasons, typically between September and June. As a result, regular misting will be required to maintain a desirable humidity of 80-90%. This is also one of the species’ breeding triggers. 

Misting alone may not be enough to maintain such high humidity. Other ways to increase humidity include: 

• Covering parts of any screen tops with plastic sheeting 

• Utilising live plants and mosses in the tank. These will also create a natural fluctuation in humidity levels throughout the day and night 

• Employing the use of automated misting systems for effortless, regular misting 

• Creating a water feature in the tank. Natural evaporation will occur slowly over time, increasing the amount of water present in the tank’s atmosphere 

A digital hydrometer should be used to constantly monitor humidity levels in the tank. These are far more reliable than dial hydrometers. 

Diet and captive feeding-

In the wild dart frogs will feed on a variety of small invertebrate prey items. Some of these have poisons of their own, which the dart frog will build up and store for future use. These are called exogenous toxins as they come from outside of the animal. They cannot produce their own toxins, which is why captive bred, or long-term captive dart frogs are usually completely safe! 

Whilst we want to ensure our animals have a wild-like life as much as possible in captivity, we certainly want to avoid their toxins! Thankfully there are several suitable feed items readily available in pet shops and online. Flightless fruit flies are perhaps the most commonly fed food item for dart frogs. Cultures can last several weeks and are therefore an economical source too. Micro and small crickets, small isopods, springtails, and bean weevils can also be fed. Isopods and springtails will be present and reproducing in bioactive setups (figure 3), giving the frogs an opportunity to naturally seek and catch their food. Bean Weevils should be fed with caution; their high levels of chitin can cause frogs to prolapse. If this is observed as a result of feeding weevils, I would recommend looking for a different food item. 

All dart frog species are voracious feeders and will take food several times throught the week. I generally feed my frogs a generous number of flies or micro crickets 3-4 times weekly. For most of these feeds I will include either a calcium or multivitamin supplement to support the frog’s overall health and avoid deficiencies. The best way to add this supplement is by transferring the food into a tub with a small amount of the powdered supplement, before giving it a gentle shake and emptying the contents into the tank. 

Wild behaviour and enrichment- 

Small reptiles and amphibians can be particularly difficult to find enrichment for. This is why I would generally recommend housing dart frogs in a naturalistic or bioactive setup. This will cater for each of the behavioural needs of your frogs with minimal additional time and resources. Scattering live feeds around the tank will also encourage natural hunting behaviours and activity, whilst feeding times could be increased by using slow feeders or placing food under leaf litter. 

Keepers could explore sensory enrichment with their frogs. One of the best ways of doing this is to play sound recordings of different things. Running water, bird calls, rainforest sounds, and even other frog calls could be used to mentally stimulate frogs. Some individuals may find certain sounds stressful, so be mindful of any potential stress before playing sounds. 

Health and disease prevention- 

One of the most important things to know about any animal are the signs of things going wrong. Unfortunately, even the most dangerous animals on the planet are still susceptible to a variety of health problems. Many can be prevented with proper husbandry practises and quarantine, but others are more sinister. 

Chytridiomycosis (commonly shortened to chytrid) is the number one threat to all amphibians. It is a devastating fungal infection which spreads rapidly through populations, both in captivity and in the wild. It is this fungus which is driving many amphibian species closer to extinction. Quarantining new animals and keeping an eye out for symptoms are the only ways we can help to tackle this disease. 

Obesity is a very common condition in dart frogs and can lead to death. Its symptoms are reasonably obvious, with large fat deposits forming, which may be confused for bloat or eggs. Ensuring that the correct diet is fed and encouraging activity will reduce the chances of your frogs becoming obese. You’ll want to choose feed items which are high in protein but much lower in fat. 

Poisoning can also be a common cause of amphibian deaths in captivity. This is caused by using unsafe water in your tanks. Tap water is not suitable due to pollutants and chemicals added to make it safe for human consumption. Instead, safer alternatives must be used, such as reverse osmosis (RO), mature, bottled, rain, or dechlorinated water. 

Infections, either bacterial or viral, can also impact dart frogs. These are likely to require veterinary diagnosis and treatment and can be identified by symptoms such as: 

• Lethargy and inactivity 

• Loss of appetite or weight 

• Bloat 

• Sores 

• Unusual behaviour 

• Changes to the eyes (foggy, sunken, lifeless) 

Key points summary-