In the wild-

The Moroccan Eyed Lizard (Timon tangitanus) can be found in North West Africa, particularly the countries of Morocco and Algeria. They live in semi-arid scrubland and forested areas, where they will be seen basking on rocks and foraging for insects. Their wild diet consists mostly of invertebrates with occasional fruit, which is an easy diet to replicate in a captive environment. They are rated Least Concern, although they are at risk from habitat loss due to increased development.

What do they look like?

Males show a brilliant display of vibrant green colouration, with brown legs and tails. Along their body they have small but beautiful ocellated spots of blue. Females have much less striking colours, being mostly brown with little colour. The species has large and obvious ear holes, with jet black eyes and a dirty white chest and neck. Moroccan Eyed Lizards are a medium reptile species, growing to lengths of up to 40cm (16 inches) of which approximately two-thirds is tail. They are often confused with Timon Lepidus, the European Eyed Lizard, which is capable of reaching twice the size.

In captivity-

Housing and Setup:

Despite not being a large species, the Moroccan Eyed Lizard is highly active, often observed digging, foraging and exploring their enclosure. For this reason I would recommend a vivarium of at least 4ft in length, 2ft in height and 2ft in depth. This provides ample floor space for a single lizard; if you are keeping a pair, a larger vivarium will be required. On the other hand, unless breeding, it is best to keep this species singularly. The best enclosure for this (and any other) arid species is a wooden vivarium with sliding doors. This is because the wood is a much better insulator than the glass alternatives, which keeps your lizard's home warmer for longer, costing you less in electricity. They also have opaque, solid sides that allow your reptile to feel more secure, an important consideration with skittish species like Timon Tangitanus. Some websites state that the Moroccan Eyed Lizard is suited to unheated outdoor vivaria in Northern Europe. In my opinion, this is not the case, and these have likely confused this species with the European Eyed Lizard, which is often kept in converted greenhouses. However, some keepers argue that this species thrives in heated outdoor enclosures, but I wouldn't like to take the chance in a bitter UK winter!

As mentioned above, the Moroccan Eyed Lizard is an active digger and forager, so an enriching setup is a must. You should include...

• A deep substrate. This will allow your lizard to dig and even burrow, an activity they occasionally do. To best replicate their wild environment, a mixed substrate of forest bark and an arid earth mix work as a natural looking and practical base for your vivarium. This is easily spot cleaned so you can maintain the cleanliness of your setup with fewer full cleans and minimal effort.
• At least one secure place to hide. T. Tangitanus are not a tame species like many of the popular arid reptiles kept in captivity, and are quite skittish, even when an element of trust has been built. Giving places for your lizard to hide away reduce its stress, leading to happier and healthier pets. The hides used are purely down to personal preference and can be manufactured, like those made by Exo Terra and ProRep, although I would always opt for natural hides, such as cork and rock.
• An easily accessible basking spot. As reptiles are cold blooded, they require a heat source to be able to maintain their body heat and thermoregulate successfully. The basking spot should be positioned directly under the heat source (see below) and can be fashioned from natural materials, or simply the top of a hide. In my experience, the basking platforms that can be stuck to the sides of the vivarium with the sticky pads provided work well until the pads are dried out by the high temperatures, which could cause injury if it was to fall. These, as well as heat rocks, are best avoided for your reptile's safety. I always use real rock for my basking spots, as they hold onto the heat well.
• Logs, branches, plants, rock and other decorations. Endemic to temperate forest and scrubland, the Moroccan Eyed Lizard will naturally come across a variety of natural materials such as rock and branches, which add interest to the setup along with similar enrichment opportunities to their wild counterparts. Plants, although almost certain to be trampled over and ripped apart, are great additions to a setup. Small ornamental grasses and even some safe herbs would be ideal for mimicking their North West African scrubland home.
• A water bowl. Arid reptiles naturally get most of their moisture from their diet, although it is best to always provide your lizards with a small water bowl so their is always the option to drink. This should be changed daily.

Heating, lighting and humidity:

For a healthy reptile, the correct temperatures and lighting are vital. The high temperatures required for arid species are easily maintained through the use of a heat bulb connected to a thermostat. I would recommend using a heat bulb rather than a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) as I found that even with the UVB tube, my Moroccan Eyed Lizard's setup seemed rather dull. Since the swap to the light emitting heat bulbs, I have seen a slight change in colouration, as well as more frequent activity. The ambient temperature of the setup should be in the mid-high 20s- between 24 and 28 degrees Celsius (75 to 82 Fahrenheit)- with a basking spot of approximately 32 degrees Celsius (90 Fahrenheit). One end of the vivarium should be a few degrees cooler to allow your reptile to properly thermoregulate. UVB lighting is essential for almost all reptiles. A 10 to 12% UVB tube, stretching along at least 3/4 of the setup, must be provided. This vital setup component helps to prevent serious health issues including MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) by assisting to synthesise vitamin D. Only a low humidity is required for arid species: Moroccan Eyed Lizards thrive at a humidity of around 40%. This can be increased slightly during shedding periods so the skin will come of easily, avoiding heath issues associated with stuck shed.

Feeding:

As mentioned previously, their wild diet consists mostly of insects although they will sometimes eat other foods such as fruits. Luckily for us as keepers, there is a plethora of live food choices for our reptiles. Locusts, crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches and many others are ideal feeders for Moroccan Eyed Lizards. An occasional frozen-thawed pinkie mouse can be offered to adults as a treat, but not too often due to their high fat content (also feed waxworms in moderation for the same reason). All live foods should be gut loaded (well fed) with leafy greens and dusted with calcium D3 powder before feeding to your lizard. Safe, soft fruits can also be offered- strawberries are a great food to try out. I feed ever other day, trying to use various different foods throughout the week for interest and variety, after all, you wouldn't want to have nothing but the same food for every meal! When feeding locusts or crickets, I opt for around 6-8 medium prey items per feed whilst with mealworms I place a number into a pot and leave them for a day for my lizard to eat what she wants, before removing those that haven't been eaten. As well as a healthy diet, remember to provide a water bowl at all times and replace the water daily.

Buying the Moroccan Eyed Lizard:

Whilst this interesting species is growing in popularity, it is still not commonly available, almost certainly because of their skittish, hands-off nature. I would highly recommend this species to a keeper looking for a beautiful display animal as they are great to watch and their feeding habits are somewhat unusual when compared to other arid species. One website states that this species is never available as a wild caught animal, although I cannot be sure of that fact, especially for the European buyers. From the small number of them that I see for sale, they are usually priced at around £50. Purely because they're not as popular as other species, they very rarely come up for rehoming, so finding a breeder or asking your trusted reptile shop are the more likely ways you will be able to obtain one of these intriguing creatures.

I hope you found this care sheet helpful and informative and good luck with your new reptile! If you liked this care sheet, please support me by following @alis_menagerie on Instagram and by sharing this guide using the buttons below. Thank you!