Written 2020, last updated 19/11/2024

Natural habitat and enclosure design- 

Due to their preference for walking along the muddy bottom of watercourses, the Musk Turtle is usually found in still or slow-moving streams, rivers, lakes, and ponds. These bodies of water can also be densely planted, with driftwood, rocks, and man-made features all offering protection from potential threats. Again, as the species is not a strong swimmer, they are typically seen in shallow water with easy access opportunities to dry land. 

On land, the Musk Turtle will seek areas with foliage, rock and wood which will offer it protection whilst at its most vulnerable. They will also utilise branches and driftwood on or above the water’s surface to bask, giving them easy access back into the safety of the water should they sense a threat. 

In captivity, keepers should try to recreate aspects of this habitat as best as possible to create a naturalistic and enriching environment for their animals. To successfully recreate the habitat in the home a very large tank or pond would be required due to the destructive nature of the species. Therefore, for many of us, a complete ‘biotope accurate’ setup is unlikely to be a realistic demand. Instead, using natural features such as driftwood and rocks is recommended, providing clutter to the tank, offering opportunities for hiding, foraging, and basking. Aquatic planting can be added to offer a more natural look, and a source of food, however this typically does not last long before it is violently uprooted by a curious turtle! I would advise caution if using fake plants (often made from silk or plastic) as many turtles will explore these items with their mouth, potentially causing serious health issues, such as impaction by ingestion. 

It is important to consider the substrate for both the aquatic and land areas of the habitat. In the wild, the Musk Turtle will typically be found in bodies of water with muddy bottoms, however this is not easy to recreate in captivity without making a very big mess! Instead, other free-flowing substrates, such as aquarium sand, are great options. Pebbles can also be used, although gravel and small chippings should be avoided to reduce the risk of impaction. Each of the recommended substrates is easy to keep clean with regular siphoning. Some keepers opt for a bare bottom in their tanks, which, whilst easy to clean, does not offer the same level of enrichment. 

As these turtles rarely use land, only a small area needs to be provided, and it does not require any special features. Just ensure that it has enough surface area to accommodate all the turtles in the tank at once, that it is positioned beneath the basking lights, and that it is easily accessible from the water. It is also important that it allows the turtles to fully dry off to keep them healthy and help avoid husbandry-caused ailments such as shell rot. Be mindful that these turtles can be quite capable climbers, so any open areas, such as basking spots, should be escape-proofed. 

Several options are available for the housing itself, including: 

• Tanks marketed for turtles- these can be great for juveniles but very few of the products currently on the market are suitable as long-term accommodation for adult turtles 

• Large aquariums- fish tanks repurposed for turtles is one of the most common forms of accommodation, with a capacity of around 200 litres (50 gallons) considered ideal for 1-2 individuals. Aquariums can also be purchased quite cheaply through pre-owned sites 

• Stock tanks- although these large, black tanks tend not to be the prettiest, they generally offer more space than a typical fish tank, and are easy to convert to have both land and water sections 

• Ponds- some keepers opt to keep their turtles in ponds, either indoors or outdoors. If you have the space, budget, and climate to do so, I would highly recommend this method, as it will give your turtles far greater space, and allow you to create a more natural environment. In future I hope to be able to offer my own turtle an indoor pond 

With any of these options, length is more important than depth due to their swimming ability. An adult turtle should have a water depth between 30 and 60cm (1-2 feet), with plenty of clutter to help it reach the surface to take breaths and access the basking area. Juveniles can be kept in shallower water, with the level increased with their growth. 

A filter is required to maintain good water quality, which should also be tested regularly. As turtles produce a great amount of waste, it is recommended to over filter your setup (this is easily done by using a filter intended for a larger body of water). Canister filters are a great option for turtle tanks. 

Environmental conditions- 

The environmental conditions in the species’ native US range are highly variable by location and season. In the wild, Musk Turtles will spend the cooler months brumating beneath the water and ice in a deep sleep. They begin this process when the water temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius. As a reptile, these turtles are ectothermic, relying on external heat sources to maintain their body temperature- if they were not to brumate, they would not survive the difficult winter period. 

In captivity, it is simpler to provide favourable conditions year-round through heating of both land and water areas. A submersible or external heater should be used to maintain a water temperature of 23-26 degrees Celsius. Take care to ensure any heating equipment is not in a position that could cause injury to your turtle. 

For the land area a source of heat is required to create a basking spot, which must also include UVB lighting. Each of these are vital for the health of any reptile. For basking I use a dome fixture with an incandescent heat bulb, controlled by a dimming thermostat. Other bulb types could also be used, such as halogens and ceramics- all must be thermostatically controlled, and basking temperatures recorded regularly by a digital thermometer. The basking spot should be maintained at a temperature of 28-32 degrees Celsius. 

UVB lighting must also be considered, and this should also be situated at the basking spot. A UVI (UV Index) of 3.0 beneath the lighting is ideal for this species, which is found within Ferguson Zone 2 as a partial sun basking species. This can be provided by a 10-12% output bulb and should be monitored with a reputable UV meter. If the rest of the tank appears dark, you could employ the use of daylight bulbs or LED lighting units for additional lighting. 

Take care to situate these lights where they will not get wet, and at an appropriate distance from the animal. A plug-in wall timer should be used to control the lighting cycle, helping to maintain natural circadian rhythms. Most keepers opt for a 12 hours on/12 hours off cycle, but it is also possible to change the timings seasonally to simulate the natural changes a wild turtle would experience throughout the year. 

Diet and captive feeding- 

A wild Musk Turtle will have a varied omnivorous diet, showing a preference for animal-based food items. This includes small fish and both aquatic and terrestrial invertebrates. They will also consume aquatic vegetation. 

Complete diets are readily available for pet turtles, often in the form of pellets or frozen items. A varied diet is not only enriching but very important for the health of the animals. Therefore, I use a pellet feed as a base diet, regularly supplementing other items. This often includes: 

• Bloodworm (live and frozen) 

• Small fish and shrimp 

• Live invertebrates such as earthworms, crickets, locusts and mealworms 

Around 20% of the diet should then be made up of plant matter, such as aquatic plants or leafy greens. 

Naturally scavengers, Musk Turtles could be considered opportunistic in their feeding habits. Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed daily, and healthy adult turtles can be fed larger portions 3-4 times a week. These meals should also be supplemented with vitamins and minerals such as calcium, vitamin A and vitamin D to prevent common deficiencies and their associated health issues. There are plenty of supplement mixes readily available for turtles and other reptiles. 

Wild behaviour and enrichment- 

Reptiles are often overlooked when it comes to offering enrichment, yet it is still vitally important to encourage natural behaviours for mental and physical stimulation. 

A wild Musk Turtle will spend a vast amount of time hunting and foraging for food within its environment. Finding engaging methods of feeding will encourage these natural behaviours and increase the overall feeding time. Some ideas include scattering food around the tank, concealing it among decor items, suspending or weighing down foods, and providing novel objects or feed items to be investigated. 

Live feeding can also encourage your turtle to be more active, which will in turn keep them physically healthy. In the UK, many of the invert species listed above can be obtained easily for feeding live. In some countries it is also legal to offer live vertebrate prey, such as fish, which would again allow the animal to hunt in a natural way. 

Regularly moving items in the tank or swapping out decor items periodically (without causing unnecessary stress) can also be enriching and promote investigatory behaviours in this very curious species. 

The final type of enrichment which could be considered for this species is social. Whilst these turtles are generally considered solitary, there is the potential they could share a larger space with other turtles, or different species, such as fish. If you do decide to house multiple animals together, ensure you provide enough space and resources to prevent competition, and monitor for any signs of stress. It is also important to select potential tank mates carefully- for example housing Musk Turtles with other, larger turtle species should not be considered. 

Health and disease prevention- 

Reptiles, including turtles, are prone to a variety of health problems. One of the most commonly seen is MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) which can be directly linked to poor husbandry in many cases, either through incorrect diet and supplementation, or a lack of appropriate heating and UVB lighting. If the points in the sections above are adhered too, your turtle should be at a reduced risk of developing MBD. 

Primarily aquatic, turtle species are also susceptible to shell rot, again commonly caused by improper husbandry. Shell rot can be identified by a slimy appearance, and by the shell becoming soft, flaky and easily damaged, among other symptoms. It can occur on both the carapace (the top shell) or the plastron (the underside) and can be caused by poor water quality and an inadequate basking spot. 

If you have any concerns about your turtle’s health, you should contact your exotic vet immediately. Causes for concern may include, but are not limited to, lethargy, laboured breathing, reduced appetite, unusual faeces, bleeding, shell deterioration, wheezing and movement issues.