Written 11/07/2024, Last updated 10/09/2024

Natural habitat and enclosure design-

As their name suggests, the species is found in Kenya, as well as neighbouring Tanzania and Uganda. There is little evidence on the wild habitat of Kenyan Zebra Skinks, which leads to confusion in captivity as to how to set up their enclosure. Some suggest that they inhabit arid areas, with others choosing to replicate a more tropical environment. From my own thorough research, I have found a source detailing an exact location in Tanzania the species has been studied: 

William R. Branch, Alastair Kilpin, Joe Beraducci (2007): Trachylepis dichroma Günther, Whiting & Bauer, 2005: additional Tanzanian material and restriction of the type locality – Herpetozoa – 20_1_2: 67 - 69. 

The study found specimens in open woodland formed of Acacia gerrardii, often close to grasslands. It also states that individuals were often seen in or around termite mounds, but only those constructed of dark soils. It can be assumed that these termite mounds are used for security, as well as perhaps offering a slightly cooler, humid retreat from the intense African heat. The exact site is close to Klein’s Camp, situated on the vast Serengeti National Park. 

From this information, keepers intending to create an accurate representation of the natural habitat may wish to offer their captive skinks a similar environment, using an arid, or semi-arid substrate, as well as offering grasses, humid hides and both rock and wood clutter. An intriguing natural display could also be created using the excavator clay substrate by ZooMed.

In my own vivarium (figure 1) I have chosen to use an arid soil mix (those made for bioactive setups by manufactures such as ProRep and Arcadia are ideal), which I also combined with sand. Dead oak branches have been used in place of acacia, and live grasses are also included to provide natural enrichment whilst acting as clutter to form visual barriers. This is particularly important as I house a trio of females, so areas must be offered for each. 

Several hides must be included within the enclosure, ensuring these are distributed across the enclosure’s temperature gradient (see ‘Environmental conditions’). At least one of these could be a humid hide, which would replicate the conditions found within a termite mound. This would be best situated on the cooler end of the tank, away from heat sources. 

Situating rock around the basking area will allow the skinks to make use of the material’s infrared absorption properties, allowing natural and more efficient basking. This is explained further in the ‘Environmental conditions’ section. 

It is possible that the species is also found in other habitat types within its range, however due to a lack of information currently present on wild individuals, I cannot confirm this. I am aware that many keepers have seen their own skinks thrive in very different setups to that described here, utilising live tropical plants, and semi-tropical substrates, such as bark chip. 

As mentioned, I use a wooden vivarium to house my Kenyan Zebra Skinks. I find this more effective at maintaining the high temperatures required than, for instance, glass tanks, such as Exo Terras. A 3ft long terrestrial vivarium should be considered the minimum for housing an individual, with larger spaces required for pairs or groups. Ensuring that the enclosure’s useable space is maximised is also important for this active reptile. 

Environmental conditions-

Reptiles are ectothermic. The term means that they are unable to regulate their own body temperature, so must instead rely on external sources of heat. In the wild, this would be the sun. Other forms of lighting are also required, known as UV, which is also found naturally in sunlight. 

Found in East African countries, the Kenyan Zebra Skink experiences high daytime temperatures, which must be replicated in captivity. These temperatures remain reasonably stable year-round, especially when compared to our own climate. This is due to the proximity of the species’ native range to the equator. Historic weather data shows average annual daytime highs of 32 degrees Celsius, with lows of 19 degrees Celsius. Nighttime temperatures fall to about 15 degrees Celsius year-round. 

This information gives keepers a good starting point for their enclosure's electrical elements. One or more basking bulbs, each connected to a dimming thermostat, should be used to provide a large enough basking site, along with UVB, on one side of the enclosure. This will provide the main heat for the entire enclosure, with the thermostat ensuring that temperatures are maintained within a safe range. A basking site should be maintained at 32 degrees Celsius. Placing the probe at this point in the enclosure and setting the thermostat to the desired temperature (in this case 32°) is likely the best option, although this placement can be specific to each individual setup. A halogen heat bulb is ideal for creating the basking spot. These are often designed specifically with reptiles in mind and emit each of the 3 types of infrared radiation (IRA, IRB, and IRC) as well as visible light. Ensure that the wattage of the bulb used matches the capacity of the fitting used in the enclosure. 

Regular checks should be carried out across the enclosure with a heat gun or digital thermometer. 

The end furthest from the basking site will become the cool end. This should be maintained at around 22 degrees Celsius. No nighttime heating is required provided your room’s temperature remains above 15° C. 

Inhabiting a hot, reasonably open habitat, the species would naturally experience a UV index (UVI) of between 2 and 3. A 12% UVB kit would likely offer the correct UVI, however this will depend upon factors such as the distance it is placed from the basking areas. It is also worth noting that screen, such as that used on the top of many glass enclosures, blocks some UVB. As such, reasonable adjustments should be made to account for this. The Facebook group ‘Reptile Lighting’ is a great resource for all specific lighting information. Figure 2 offers an example for how lighting should be arranged in the enclosure, note the inclusion of an optional LED lighting unit. This is simply to increase the light levels in the enclosure, creating a more comprehensive light spectrum, and a clearer day/night cycle. 

All lights should be controlled by a plug-in timer- the typical 12 hours on, 12 hours off method is ideal due to this species’ equatorial range. 

The final important environmental parameter is humidity. A value between 40% and 70% should be maintained, and this must be monitored through a digital hydrometer. In the wild, the typical daytime humidity would be around 40%, with the value rising overnight and into the morning to approximately 70%. 

This fluctuation will naturally occur, but keepers may wish to mist the enclosure lightly either in the late evening or early morning to further simulate this natural cycle. Additionally, the humid hide should be maintained constantly at a higher humidity than the rest of the habitat. This is primarily to offer the skinks choice and allow them a safe place to shed. Filling the hide with live sphagnum moss and misting lightly daily will ensure this is appropriately maintained. 

Diet and captive feeding-

Both in the wild and in captivity, Kenyan Zebra Skinks show a great preference to invertebrates in their diet- the diet I provide to my own skinks is typically about 2/3 live inverts. A wild skink is likely to encounter a variety of feed items, such as grasshoppers, crickets, and, given their association with termite mounds, perhaps termites too. 

In captivity there are many readily available live feed sources, such as crickets, locusts, mealworms, and morio worms. These should be gut loaded to improve their nutritional value for the skink, and supplements are also essential. A powdered calcium supplement should be used on all live foods. Additional supplements could be offered too, these are covered further in the ‘Health and disease prevention’ section. 

Although a preference is certainly shown for live invertebrates, they are not strictly insectivorous, so a balanced diet of fresh foods and other items is required. Any reptile safe vegetables and plants can be offered, as well as a small amount of fruit (too much should be avoided due to high moisture and sugar content). Commercial diet mixes, such as those made by Repashy can also be used within a varied diet. A favourite of my own skinks is scrambled egg, which I sometimes leave with the shell for a natural source of calcium. 

Wild behaviour and enrichment-

A diurnal species, Kenyan Zebra Skinks will typically be most active during the day. The circadian rhythm you provide using your lighting system will allow this to occur. New technology to simulate sun rise and sun set is now available through Arcadia’s Lumenize range, which could be utilised to create a more naturalistic daylight pattern. It could also be of value following the seasonal variation in day length from the species’ native range in their captive environment. This will allow the body to go through its natural annual cycles, as well as daily, especially when used in conjunction with changing enclosure temperatures. 

The species is terrestrial, which must be considered when choosing the tank type and designing the enclosure. Although most of the time will be spent on the ground, changes in elevation within the environment would be beneficial for thermoregulation and basking. This can be created simply with rock, cork bark and branches. A deep and free-flowing substrate will enable burrowing, which I have observed on occasion with my own specimens. 

Environmental enrichment- either though changing the enclosure, making it more natural, or adding new features to be investigated- is the easiest method of enrichment for any reptile, but it is far from the only option. Figure 3 shows one of my own skinks investigating new features in her enclosure. Live feeding of invertebrates is also highly enriching, and will promote health, activity, and natural hunting behaviours. Scatter feeding or using slow feeders can also increase feeding times to a more natural level and is much more stimulating than feeding from a bowl or tongs. 

The senses of touch and smell are both important to reptiles, and this can help to guide a keeper to appropriate enrichment. Just some examples include: herbs, scent trails, hidden foods, different substrates, and different materials in the enclosure. 

Health and disease prevention-

Whenever discussing reptile health, the most obvious place to begin is with Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). This condition often has terrible impacts on the lives of the reptiles effected, and can be fatal, but it is completely avoidable with appropriate care. This includes the correct diet, lighting, and heating. 

Ensuring the calcium: phosphorus ratio is correct in the diet is vital in preventing MBD. The ratio should be 2:1, and this can be easily provided through correct supplementation. There are plenty of calcium supplements available to reptile keepers, and these should be used as part of the regular diet. The lighting and heating in the enclosure is also vital. As an ectothermic animal (one which relies on external heat sources to control their body temperature), reptiles require heat and UVB lighting for their metabolism to work effectively. Only when each of these is correct can metabolic bone disease be completely prevented. 

Another common health concern in reptiles is disecdysis- an issue related to the regular process of shedding skin. This is often caused by an environmental issue, such as low humidity, but can be a symptom of an underlying health concern, dehydration, or deficiencies. Vitamin A is important for skin health and cell growth. Offering this vitamin as a supplement can help to reduce the chance of such issues, as well as maintaining the appropriate environment. 

Parasites, both internal and external, can also affect reptiles. Maintaining good hygiene and quarantine protocols within the collection will generally reduce the chances of such health problems. 

Most health concerns with reptiles are easily prevented through good husbandry, right from enclosure design, to diet, and cleaning. A regular spot clean (daily if possible) as well as full cleans when appropriate will reduce the chances of many other diseases and health problems common in reptiles, but not discussed here. 

Key points summary-